We finally started to get some real snow in the Keweenaw, 30+ inches over the last few days, and winter looks like it is here to stay for a while. There are some real pros and cons to the changing seasons up here. I can ski now, which is great, but I can’t bike. I can climb ice, but rock is out. And I can’t paddle any more. Oh wait, yes I can.
I saw Greg Maino at work at Downwind Sports last Friday and all this new white stuff had him pretty excited. I would have thought he would be excited to ski or snowshoe but apparently the Lake was calling his name. We made plans to get together Monday and head out on the water.
Monday dawned and my house was beyond cold. We got in late Sunday and were to tired from shoveling to light the fire so it was about 30° F when I finally rolled out of bed. Hannah headed off to school and I started to get my gear together from all the random places around the house. Putting on my wetsuit is never an enjoyable task but when the rubber is slightly below freezing it becomes a downright challenge. Greg and Sam Gardner showed up around 11AM, we loaded my boat on his car and we headed north in search of fair winds and beautiful shoreline.
We first headed to Esrey Park to continue the paddle we did back in September but the water was a bit tempestuous and Sam had never really been in a kayak before. The two to four breaking waves and unforgiving weather seemed like a big challenge for a first timer. We headed over to the other side of the peninsula to get away from the north wind and found glassy water at Bete’ Grise.
The air temperature was about 27°F and the water only slightly above freezing as we put in. Winter paddling is awesome. The air is crisp, the views amazing, you can’t beat the solitude and you feel like a bad ass while you’re out there. It takes a little more prep than a summer trip and more gear but it is well worth it. I was layered up in neoprene from head to tow and had a Hot Chily’s fleece on under my Kokatat splash jacket. I borrowed a pair heavier gloves from Greg which worked great. I was warm for most of the paddle with only a bit of a chill settling into my fingertips and toes.
Photo by Greg Maino - www.juskuz.com
The shoreline is amazing in this part of the Keweenaw. The topography on land as you move away from the lake is huge with soaring basalt cliffs and giant rolling hills. We paddled past a 30 foot see stack, through a sea arch and in and out of dozens of awesome little coves. Bare Bluff looms over you at one point, rising hundreds of feet above the Lake. It was cool to see it from the water line after hiking it so recently. Montreal Falls marked the turn around point as it poured down into the lake. We sat for a while and enjoyed the flowing water but you can’t sit long without the ever present cold settling in so we headed back toward the car.
We made it through the day without any one getting wet so I called it a success as we landed back at the beach. I love seeing the familiar shore of Lake Superior in a new light and winter paddling is just the thing. It was great paddling with Greg and Sam and I think Sam is hooked. He is even talking about building a skin on frame kayak over the winter. I just might have to get in on that.
Greg posted to his blog about the paddle and has a few great photos on their including the one I stole above. I forgot to grab my camera out of my bag so I didn’t get any shots of my own. Greg had what looked like some amazing pictures but, unfortunately, his memory card crapped out and he lost all of them.
View Bete Grise Paddle in a larger map
